From top to bottom:

• Cupboard door with clock, barometer, and thermometer
  
• Wine glass rack. 3. Dish and utensil holders
  
• Perhaps the best modification is the nice wood daggerboard sheath cover
  

• 7.5 Kg Bruce clone, 10 ft chain, 100 ft double braid
  
• 15 lb Super Hooker (Danforth), 10 ft chain, 100 ft double braid
  
• 3.5 Kg grapnel, 50 ft nylon 3 strand.
  

We have one on each side. I cut two 1" high slots in the hull liner at 16" centers, and fished a 1 inch nylon web between. A plastic clasp, one side with adjustment, enables us to easily remove the coolers, but to secure them in place when underway. For weekends, we'll use one for cold stuff, the other for dry goods. For extended cruises we'll use one cooler for daily access only, the other for regular access, and dry goods in a separate large container alongside. Even with this, entry into the aft berth is quite accessible, and our double sleeping bag easily fits in between. Note that we put "Rubbermaid" containers in the port settee storage areas and used the lids under the coolers to keep cooler sweat or bottom grit off the aft berth cushions.

This is no ordinary daggerboard cover.

Here, Ondine is unlatching the barrel bolt.

Ondine has swung out the daggerboard cover about 90 degrees so you can get a better look at the grain and finish.

When the cover is swung out 180 degrees and tilted forward, the legs drop down.

Wait a minute! Why does a daggerboard cover need legs?

The table is 16" x 24" and just big enough for two people to eat at.

Need more room? Add in a 12" leaf to make it 16" x 36" (The leaf is used as a sink cover for counter space when the table is in the stowed position).

With the leaf added, there's lots of room for two. Can fit 4 plates if everyone sits elbow to elbow. What's more, the table easily slides off the swing out bar so it can be transferred to the cockpit for moonlight dining.

Sure beats drudging that big heavy black board out from under the aft berth and fishing for the wobbly leg to prop it up with!